Cutting Calculation

For Fabric Consumption

 = Fabric Weight / Fabric Qty * 12(dozen) .

 

For Lay Calculation

 = Fab.wt.- Cutt.pcs wt.*1000*1550/Actual dia / Actual GSM-Joint / Lay length.

 

For fabric Weight

=Lay length*Actual dia*Actual GSM / 1550 /1000 / Marker Pcs * 12 =........Consupmtion.

then, calculate this

=Number of Lay * Marker pcs / 12 =...........(Dozen)

 

Then

=Dozen * Consumption.

= Fabric Weight.

 

 For Number Pcs Qty

= Fabric Weight / Running Consumption * 12(Dozen).

 

Next post Describe this. Please with us.

Calculate the CM of a Garments

Dear All,
My this post for these people, who's are still confused regarding the CM (cost of making) of a knit items (garments). To find out the CM of a item you must need the following 06 (six) information at first, as listed below:




i. Monthly total expenditure of your factory with factory rent,commercial cost, electricity bill, water bill, transportation, repairing, worker & stuff wages etc. (8hrs/day) in bangla taka. Suppose - 50,00,000/- tk


ii. Qty of running Machine of your factory of the following month (which total expenditure we have consider here). Suppose - 100 machines 


iii. Number of machine to complete the layout for the following Items (which CM we are calculating). Suppose - 25 machines 


iv. Production target/capacity of the following items, per hour from the existing layout, excluding alter & reject. Suppose - 200 pcs per hour 


v) Total working day of the followings month,(though the house rent,commercial expenses,machine overhauling & some other cost remain same)Suppose- 26 days. 


v. If you want to calculate the CM in US$ (dollar) then pls input present dollar conversation rate BDTk. Suppose - $1 = 74 taka.


Now you should put the following information in the following form, which you will get here http://cmcostofaknitgarments.blogspot.com/ 


Otherwise you may follow the below rule:


COST OF MAKING (CM) 


= {(Monthly total expenditure of the following factory / 26) / (Qty of running Machine of your factory of the following month) X (Number of machine to complete the layout)} / [{(Production capacity per hr from the existing layout, excluding alter & reject) X 8}] X 12 / (Dollar conversion rate)


= [{(50,00,000 / 26) / ( 100 ) X (25)} / {(200) X 8}] X 12 / 74


= [{192307.7 / (100) X (25) } / 1600] X 12 / 74 


= (48,076.9 / 1600) X 12 / 74


= 30.048 X 12 / 74


= 360.58 / 74


= $4.873 / dozen (this is the making cost (12 pcs) of the following items) 




However, normally at present (after starting the new salary scale) in Bangladesh we calculate the CM of any item consider the overhead sewing machine cost 1200 tk to 1400 tk/day that means $16.216 to $18.92/per day. 


Above is for a non-compliance factory. For the a compliance factory the per day machine cost will be 1800 tk to 2100 tk ( $24.32 to $28.37)


SO, if the an items produce 1600 pcs per day using 25 machines then the CM will be 


= Overhead machine cost X require machine / produce quantity X 12 / $74


= 1400 X 25 / 1600 X 12 / 74


= $3.547/DOZ




Thanks
IE Mahbub

DYEING METHOD QUESTION

MONDOL GROUP

NAYAPARA, KASHIMPUR,GAZIPUR, BANGLADESH

1

Why we use lab for dyeing ?.

Ans : Colour recipe adjustment for bulk production.

2

For dyeing of polyester what type of dye stuff we use ?.

Ans : Disperse dyes.

3

What temperature to be used for dyeing polyester fabric ?.

Ans : 130˚

4

Normally which dye stuff we use for knitted fabric ?.

Ans : Cotton for used-  ( A )Reactive dyes.Sulpher dyes.

: Polyester for used ( B ) Dispere dyes.

: Polimade for used  ( C ) Acid dyes.

5

Why Pre-Treatmnent is used for dyeing ?

Ans :

( A ) Fabrics natural tone removal.

( B ) Dust dirt,Oil wax, Metal content.

( C ) Absorvency.

6

What is the intermidiate process after dyeing & before dyeing ?

Ans : Squeezer process.

7

What type of fabric required to heat set ?

Ans : 100% Polyester, PC, CVC, Lycra fabric.

8

Why we use compacting machine instead of normal calender machine ?

Increased fabrics weight ( GSM ) & Shrinkage control.

9

Before making a batch what type of fault are to be checked ?

Ans : Knitting hole. Patta, Sinker mark, Oil mark, Niddle mark, Star mark.

10

What is allowable shrinkage limit for dyeing ?

Ans : +_ 5%

11

Before delivery the fabric to graments section what parameter to be checked ?

Ans : Colour shed should be match with approval lab.

: Test Report----------

: ( A ) Shrinkage report

: ( B ) Colour fastness report

: ( C ) Uneven dyeing is there or not

: ( D ) GSM & DIA

12

What type of method is used in knit dyeing ?

Ans : Exhaust method

13

What is the process flow chat of dyeing ?

Ans : Grey fabric rcvd from knitting section----------

( A ) Grey fabric inspection

( B ) Batching

Load in the which M/C

( A )

Scouring

( B )

Hotwash

( C )

Neutralization

Dossing levelling other au

( A) Dyeing

(B ) Hotwash

( C ) Soping

( D ) Acid wash

( E ) Fixing

( F ) Softner

( A) Squeezer

( B ) Dryer

( C ) Compacting

( D ) Checking & Packing

( E ) Delivery to graments.

Dyeing price

CALCULATION OF GSM

Dear All,

GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric.GSM is a very important parameter for specified a certain quality of knitted fabric. The production of knitted fabric is calculated in weight. The GSM cutter is very popular and easy usable GSM testing instrument used in most knitted factory. But the construction of this cutter is very simple. It is circular disk of 100 square cm area with sharp blade attached to its edge. So 100 square cm of fabric can easily cut by it and weighted at the electric balance to get GSM reading.

There are two formulas for calculating the GSM of a knitted fabric

First formula is as under:

               Course per inch X Stitch length X 39.37 X 39.37 X Tex

GSM =    ----------------------------------------------------------------------

                                               1000 X 1000

aNd

                WPI X CPI X SL(mm)

GSM =    ----------------------------- X 0.9155

                         Count(Ne)

CALCULATION OF WALES PER INCH (WPI):

We calculated the number of Wales in 10 inch fabric unraveling the yarn. Then we divide the no of total Wales by 10 inch to getting the Wales per inch.

CALCULATION OF COURSE PER INCH (CPI):

We calculated the number of course in five inch with the help of counting glass and needle. Then we divide the total no of course by five inch to getting the course per inch.

MEASUREMENT OF STITCH LENGTH (SL mm):

Stitch length is theoretically a single length of yarn which includes one needle loop and adjacent needle loops on either side of it. Loop exits in course in course length and it is that which influence fabric dimension and other properties including weight.

In order to determine the stitch length, we count 100 no Wales or stitch and count its length by hanging the yarn on the stitch counter. The reading is found in mm unit.

MEASUREMENT OF YARN COUNT:

We have fallowed a different way to find out the count of the yarn. At first we unravel a considerable no yarn from the fabric. Then we measured the total length of the yarn and measured the weight of that no of yarn. From these weights, we find out the count of the yarn.

The equation we followed is as follow:

                 N x L x 453.6

Count =   ----------------

                 Wt x 36 x 840

Where,

N   = number of yarn in bundle.

L    = length of yarn.

Wt  = weight of yarn.

Another formula is the following:

                    Ks x Tex

GSM =   ---------------------

              Stitch length (mm)

Where,

Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type. Ks is calculated and estimated as below:

              GSM x Stitch length

Ks =     -----------------------------

                          Tex

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