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Cutting Section

Cutting Section in Apparel Industry

Cutting room is a section in the garments industry where to cut fabrics as per the pattern, marker; cutting parts sew to bring in garments form. Cutting is the most sensitive operation in the apparel industry, cutter man work accuracy is the key here to maintain good cutting quality. If you are related to the apparel industry or apparel manufacturing process you should know cutting work activities. Some certain rules and procedure have to maintain by cutting department I am giving cutting process flow chart step by step in below for your easy understanding.

Cutting Working Process Flow chart

Cutting plan based on shade band record
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Receive PO sheet, Tech pack and others detail

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Fabric received from a store as per requisition

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Relax fabric if necessary with record

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Make a Marker to Determine consumption

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Marker and pattern Crosses Check (ratio, grainline, jumping, etc.)

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Laying as per marker length (Spreading)

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Spreading quality control

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Random quality check on fabric fault & others

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A cutting (if necessary hand scissoring done during check fabric) and band Knife cutting (small panel such as single fly etc.)

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Cutting Quality Control

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Randomly Panel check with hard pattern

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Panel check with CAD marker paper

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Layer numbering &bundling

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100% panel check

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Replace defective parts shade wise

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Ready cutting parts to input.

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                 Supply to Fusing & Sewing as per approved requisition & ratio

 

                                                                Cutting Parts

                  Flow Chart of Garments Cutting Section:

 

The process flow is described briefly:

Fabrics Relaxation

Spandex fabrics can be relaxed from 24 to 48 hours before spreading as per customer requirements. Cotton fabric relaxation will depend on customer requirements.

Pre-Spreading and Spreading Quality control

      1.   Pattern and marker checking using approved sample

      2.   Pattern grainline

      3.   Spreading table marking lengthwise with allowance

      4.   Shade wise spreading by using fabrics shade chart

      5.   Spreading defects like leaning, bowing, skew, narrow goods, tension and marking visual         defects.

Cut Panel Inspection

1.                   Quality an inspector will check Panel using Hard pattern after cut from three different position     Top, Middle, and Bottom

2.                   If there any discrepancy, a correction will be immediate. If the panel found plus from hard patterns, it will have to cut extra part. If panel found minus from hard pattern, will have to place the fabric under marker as per lay chart to remake again.

3.                   All cut panels will be inspected to detect any types of fabric fault if any defective panel found, will be replaced from lay chart wise remnants by following the shade and pattern grain line.

       Production Order Sheet:  Cutting Section firstly takes the PO sheet. They find out all detailed information in the PO sheet especially size breakdown, size-wise and color-wise order quantity.

           Pattern receives: They receive the approved pattern from the sample section.

          Marker Making: After pattern receiving they make marker according to the order sheet and pattern size.

         Fabric receives: Fabric is the main raw material in the cutting section. All success depends on cutting. So the cutting section has to become serious when they receive the fabric. Is the right fabric for the right marker or not.

          Fabric Spreading: Before spreading the fabric on table they relax the unrolled fabric for 12-24 hr. After completing relaxation they spread the fabric on a table with proper tension.

          Marker Placing: Marker is a thin paper which carries all the garments components and placed on fabric lay for cutting. Before cutting the marker from CAD placed on fabric lay. Marker checked very carefully before placement on fabric.

        Cutting: In this step, cutting is done by a cutter machine. Straight knife cutting machine, Round knife cutting machines are mostly used for cutting.

           Sorting: After cutting the cut parts are sorted according to shade, size-wise.

        Numbering & checking: In this step, the cut parts are numbering and checking carefully so that the single components never mistake. QC checks the cut parts. If any defect found they replace the cut piece.

           Bundling:  The cut pieces are bundled finally.

           Input to Sewing:  The bundled cut piece ready for sewing.

Cutting Calculation

For Fabric Consumption

 = Fabric Weight / Fabric Qty * 12(dozen) .

 

For Lay Calculation

 = Fab.wt.- Cutt.pcs wt.*1000*1550/Actual dia / Actual GSM-Joint / Lay length.

 

For fabric Weight

=Lay length*Actual dia*Actual GSM / 1550 /1000 / Marker Pcs * 12 =........Consupmtion.

then, calculate this

=Number of Lay * Marker pcs / 12 =...........(Dozen)

 

Then

=Dozen * Consumption.

= Fabric Weight.

 

 For Number Pcs Qty

= Fabric Weight / Running Consumption * 12(Dozen).

 

Next post Describe this. Please with us.

Calculate the CM of a Garments

Dear All,
My this post for these people, who's are still confused regarding the CM (cost of making) of a knit items (garments). To find out the CM of a item you must need the following 06 (six) information at first, as listed below:




i. Monthly total expenditure of your factory with factory rent,commercial cost, electricity bill, water bill, transportation, repairing, worker & stuff wages etc. (8hrs/day) in bangla taka. Suppose - 50,00,000/- tk


ii. Qty of running Machine of your factory of the following month (which total expenditure we have consider here). Suppose - 100 machines 


iii. Number of machine to complete the layout for the following Items (which CM we are calculating). Suppose - 25 machines 


iv. Production target/capacity of the following items, per hour from the existing layout, excluding alter & reject. Suppose - 200 pcs per hour 


v) Total working day of the followings month,(though the house rent,commercial expenses,machine overhauling & some other cost remain same)Suppose- 26 days. 


v. If you want to calculate the CM in US$ (dollar) then pls input present dollar conversation rate BDTk. Suppose - $1 = 74 taka.


Now you should put the following information in the following form, which you will get here http://cmcostofaknitgarments.blogspot.com/ 


Otherwise you may follow the below rule:


COST OF MAKING (CM) 


= {(Monthly total expenditure of the following factory / 26) / (Qty of running Machine of your factory of the following month) X (Number of machine to complete the layout)} / [{(Production capacity per hr from the existing layout, excluding alter & reject) X 8}] X 12 / (Dollar conversion rate)


= [{(50,00,000 / 26) / ( 100 ) X (25)} / {(200) X 8}] X 12 / 74


= [{192307.7 / (100) X (25) } / 1600] X 12 / 74 


= (48,076.9 / 1600) X 12 / 74


= 30.048 X 12 / 74


= 360.58 / 74


= $4.873 / dozen (this is the making cost (12 pcs) of the following items) 




However, normally at present (after starting the new salary scale) in Bangladesh we calculate the CM of any item consider the overhead sewing machine cost 1200 tk to 1400 tk/day that means $16.216 to $18.92/per day. 


Above is for a non-compliance factory. For the a compliance factory the per day machine cost will be 1800 tk to 2100 tk ( $24.32 to $28.37)


SO, if the an items produce 1600 pcs per day using 25 machines then the CM will be 


= Overhead machine cost X require machine / produce quantity X 12 / $74


= 1400 X 25 / 1600 X 12 / 74


= $3.547/DOZ




Thanks
IE Mahbub

DYEING METHOD QUESTION

MONDOL GROUP

NAYAPARA, KASHIMPUR,GAZIPUR, BANGLADESH

1

Why we use lab for dyeing ?.

Ans : Colour recipe adjustment for bulk production.

2

For dyeing of polyester what type of dye stuff we use ?.

Ans : Disperse dyes.

3

What temperature to be used for dyeing polyester fabric ?.

Ans : 130˚

4

Normally which dye stuff we use for knitted fabric ?.

Ans : Cotton for used-  ( A )Reactive dyes.Sulpher dyes.

: Polyester for used ( B ) Dispere dyes.

: Polimade for used  ( C ) Acid dyes.

5

Why Pre-Treatmnent is used for dyeing ?

Ans :

( A ) Fabrics natural tone removal.

( B ) Dust dirt,Oil wax, Metal content.

( C ) Absorvency.

6

What is the intermidiate process after dyeing & before dyeing ?

Ans : Squeezer process.

7

What type of fabric required to heat set ?

Ans : 100% Polyester, PC, CVC, Lycra fabric.

8

Why we use compacting machine instead of normal calender machine ?

Increased fabrics weight ( GSM ) & Shrinkage control.

9

Before making a batch what type of fault are to be checked ?

Ans : Knitting hole. Patta, Sinker mark, Oil mark, Niddle mark, Star mark.

10

What is allowable shrinkage limit for dyeing ?

Ans : +_ 5%

11

Before delivery the fabric to graments section what parameter to be checked ?

Ans : Colour shed should be match with approval lab.

: Test Report----------

: ( A ) Shrinkage report

: ( B ) Colour fastness report

: ( C ) Uneven dyeing is there or not

: ( D ) GSM & DIA

12

What type of method is used in knit dyeing ?

Ans : Exhaust method

13

What is the process flow chat of dyeing ?

Ans : Grey fabric rcvd from knitting section----------

( A ) Grey fabric inspection

( B ) Batching

Load in the which M/C

( A )

Scouring

( B )

Hotwash

( C )

Neutralization

Dossing levelling other au

( A) Dyeing

(B ) Hotwash

( C ) Soping

( D ) Acid wash

( E ) Fixing

( F ) Softner

( A) Squeezer

( B ) Dryer

( C ) Compacting

( D ) Checking & Packing

( E ) Delivery to graments.

Dyeing price